As time passes or skin issues arise, the natural exfoliation process of our skin can slow down significantly. Dead cells start to pile up on the surface of the epidermis, thickening the outermost layer. The texture becomes uneven, less smooth to the touch, and the complexion loses its brightness. Wrinkles and fine lines become more pronounced. Furthermore, this buildup of cells creates a physical barrier, hindering the effectiveness of skincare products.

It’s therefore crucial to incorporate an exfoliating product into your routine regularly. Not just to cleanse the skin deeply and refine its texture to a smooth, soft, and satiny feel, but also to even out and brighten the complexion. Moreover, the skin’s ability to absorb and respond to subsequent care products greatly increases!

WHAT DOES AN EXFOLIANT DO?

An exfoliant is a staple in any skincare regimen. It works to remove dead skin cells from the surface, refines the skin's texture for a smoother feel, stimulates cell renewal, and enhances the effectiveness of follow-up skincare products—whether they're moisturizers, firming agents, or anti-aging treatments. Essentially, exfoliating is a powerful tool for achieving beautiful, soft skin that's more receptive to any products applied afterward.

ONE SIZE DOES NOT FIT ALL

Just like any skincare product, the right exfoliant depends on your skin type. To optimize its effectiveness and your skin’s tolerance, choose wisely!

THERE ARE THREE MAIN TYPES OF EXFOLIANTS:

MECHANICAL EXFOLIANT

This type of exfoliant contains abrasive particles, often referred to as grains. Also known as a scrub, it is designed to be applied to the skin in circular motions to dislodge accumulated dead cells on the surface of the skin. It’s important that the particles it contains are natural to protect the environment and are rounded to avoid damaging the skin.

Our mechanical exfoliant, Satinage, contains three types of natural-origin beads of different sizes—jojoba spheres, bamboo spheres, and diatomaceous earth—in a creamy, melting texture. It is suitable for normal and possibly combination skin. However, if you have sensitive or dry skin, experience redness, signs of oily skin or acne, or are prone to acne, you should opt for an enzymatic or chemical exfoliant.

CHEMICAL EXFOLIANT

This type of exfoliation uses organic acids like fruit acids, the famous α-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, or salicylic acid, the best-known of the β-hydroxy acids. Recently, a new category of exfoliating acids has emerged in our products: poly-hydroxy acids, such as lactobionic acid or gluconolactone, which act like AHAs but more gently.

Acids work by dissolving the chemical bonds between cells. The removal of dead cells typically promotes the growth of new skin cells. Furthermore, several studies show that many acids also stimulate collagen production in the skin. This process is not yet fully understood by scientists. Finally, AHAs and PHAs also stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid in the skin, and PHAs are known to be powerful antioxidants.

Chemical exfoliants are therefore interesting for diminishing the appearance of aging signs. And an exfoliant with salicylic acid is preferred for acne-prone skin.

Generally, it is applied to the face for a few minutes and then thoroughly rinsed. It requires no specific technique or manipulation of the skin.

There are also new forms, which appeal to users due to their ease of application. For example, Dr. Renaud's Laboratory Peeling Discs are pre-soaked discs that are used on the face instead of toner. They contain lactic acid and five fruit acids - including glycolic acid - as well as plant-based enzymes. Its action results in moisturizing effects, an instant boost of radiance, diminished appearance of wrinkles, and much more.

ENZYMATIC EXFOLIANT

The effectiveness of this type of exfoliant relies on the use of enzymes, mainly of natural origin, such as papain, bromelain, or pepsin.

To understand how it works, envision enzymes as tiny 'Pacmans' that digest dead cells on the surface of the skin. Simply apply the exfoliant to pre-cleansed and cleaned skin and wait a few minutes. There is no manipulation or abrasion of the skin involved. It is the exfoliant of choice for any sensitive or reactive skin.

DermaZyme is an exceptionally gentle two-step enzymatic peeling with a unique formulation. Not only does it reactivate radiance and provide an immediate "lifting" effect, but it is also designed for deep cleansing of the most delicate skins. It can be used on all skin types, especially acne-prone, dehydrated, thin, rosacea, and fragile, lipid-free, and/or sensitive skins.

WHEN TO EXFOLIATE?

Generally, you should exfoliate your skin once or twice a week, but the aesthetician may recommend a different frequency based on your skin’s needs.

Also, always think about using an exfoliant before sun exposure to achieve a more even tan and almost perfect bronzing. And don’t be afraid to exfoliate your skin during sun exposure... your beautiful tan won’t instantly disappear, quite the contrary, it will be somewhat sublime due to the effect of exfoliation as the dead cells that accumulate on the surface of the skin tend to dull our tan.

If you are planning on waxing, this is THE time to do a body scrub! Apply it the day before waxing. This prepares your skin and facilitates waxing. Doing a scrub before waxing is the promise of a better result, cleaner and smoother skin!

HOW TO USE AN EXFOLIANT?

The application depends on the exfoliant. Some are to be applied to perfectly dry skin while others are more effective on damp skin – such as our two-step enzymatic exfoliant DermaZyme. You should refer to the application advice available on the packaging of your exfoliant.

For grainy body scrubs, massage vigorously in upward circular movements, focusing on rough areas, then rinse thoroughly.

PRO TIP: Remember to moisturize your skin well after each scrub!

GENERAL PRECAUTIONS

Never apply an exfoliant on damaged or irritated skin, or on skin with sunburn. Never apply on the eyelids or mucous membranes.

For a customized routine perfectly tailored to your skin's needs, your concerns, and your lifestyle, consult a Laboratoire Dr Renaud aesthetician.